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Beaumont’s Black-Market Wine

Source: Atlas Obscura

Bottles of Cuvée des Vignes d’Antan.Bottles of Cuvée des Vignes d’Antan.Hervé Garnier with a bottle of his forbidden wine.
Bottles of Cuvée des Vignes d’Antan.

In the remote mountains of southern France, Beaumont’s villagers have been making wine from jacquez and herbemont grapes for more than 150 years. Since the 1930s, however, this wine has been outlawed. But that doesn’t stop a collective known as the Mémoire de la Vigne from producing more than 7,000 bottles each year.

The tiny, 200-person village of Beaumont is located in the Cévennes National Park along France’s highest mountain range. When hybrids combining hardy American vines with European varieties were introduced to Beaumont’s farmers more than 150 years ago, they thrived in the arid shale soil.

Villagers experimented with sweet wines made from the grapes and, through the generations, used the jacquez and herbemont varieties to create a distinct regional wine.

Unfortunately, following a glut in…

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